MEXICO CITY

15 years ago we had spent a few weeks in Mexico City, and it was time to go back again.

We could find reasonably priced tickets from Amsterdam to Mexico City and back to Amsterdam from Guatemala city. 

 

So we would figure out our transportation to Guatemala once we got to Mexico. 

 

 

mexico city  - tepotzlan -  puerto escondido  -  casa wabi

MEXICO

Hotel La Valise

 

 

 

 

We were told about the newest hotel in Roma Norte. It was designed by Emmanuel Picault Chic by Accident. A small hideaway with a couple of luxurious rooms. One with a bed that you can drive out onto the balcony. 

 

We met Roberto, the very sympathetic host who knows everything and everyone in Mexico. 

 

 

www.lavalise.com.mx

Tonala 53
Colonia Roma Norte

 

One of our favorite restaurants was La Docena, which turned out to have just opened. The oysters off the grill where especially good.

 

La Docena

Av. Álvaro Obregón 31, Cuauhtémoc, Roma Norte

Elle Decoration Mexico

We have been working with Elle Decoration Mexico for a while. It was nice to meet Michelle the chief editor, and Sandra, the art director in real life. 

Restaurant without a name

 

We were later told that this restaurant was apparently one of the best places to eat in the city. 

 

Luis Moya 31 / esquina con independencia

(+52) 55102697

Mexico City is known to be unsafe, but fortunately, we found the opposite. It was very easy to hail a taxi on the street, and it was cheaper than one we could have gotten through the hotel.

Ojo de Agua 

For lunch and fruit juice in giant jam pots

 

Citlaltépetl 23c /Col. Condesa

 

We usually do not have hotel breakfasts. One way or another we manage to find a spot which becomes our daily breakfast place.

 

Abarrotes Delirio

Colima No. 114, Roma Norte

Roma Norte - Condesa

 

The biggest change we came across after all those years being away were all the new good restaurants we came across. 

 

Especially Condesa and Roma Norte where we had booked a hotel, had gone from being residential neighborhoods to being bustling neighborhoods riddled with trendy bars and restaurants

 

Ojo de Agua - Citlaltépetl 23c
Condesa

This place for lunch is in Condesa on a square in one of the most beautiful roads of the city: Avenida Amsterdam

Casa-Azul-Frida-Kahlo

 

 

 

 

15 years ago we had visited Frida Kahlo’s house in Coyoacan. When we went this time we found it to be very busy and did not get the right feeling from her home and her work. You will probably need to go earlier to avoid the crowds.

www.museofridakahlo.org.mx

Londres 247, Del Carmen

Coyoacán

 

Historic centre

 

 

 

 

In addition to the trendy neighborhoods, we always want to experience something different in a city. It gives you a completely different feel about the town.

We found a huge bakery called Pastelleria Ideal, a tiny restaurant with no name and a beautiful deserted Art Deco Cinema all by wandering around the old city center. 

 

Pasteleria Ideal

Av. 16 de Septiembre 18 /  Col. Centro

Cocina Conchita

Álvaro Obregón 154 - Roma Norte

 

We were drawn inside by the interior. And the ceviche was fantastic. 

MEXICO

mexico city  - tepotzlan -  puerto escondido  -  casa wabi

Ludwig Godefroy and 

Emmanuel Picault

Our second day in Mexico City, we had an appointment with Ludwig and Emmanuel, who are architects at the Chic by Accident office.

 

They have offices on the 9th floor of an old building in Juarez, a somewhat rundown neighborhood close to Roma Norte. The elevator has been broken for a very long time.

One of the reasons we came to Mexico was because we wanted to photograph Emmanuel’s weekend home. 

 

The first meeting with the architects was very pleasant and a second appointment was quickly set up to go visit his weekend house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

www.chicbyaccident.com

Edificio Vizcaya 

bucareli 128 int 9B - Mexico DF

 

Santa Catarina published in ELLE DECOR 

magazine

The house is very open, there are no windows or doors so the elements can go about their business. This allows moss to grow on the inner walls, and if it gets cold you just put on some extra layers. 

 

Inside is outside, and outside is inside.

santa catarina

Santa Catarina is a two hours drive from Mexico City. We got there around 7am, early enough to see the early light. 

We thought it looked like a 50’s house that had not been painted it a long time, but it turned out that it was a pretty new house.

 

The unfinished imperfect look of the house was created on purpose and firs the design philosophy of Emmanuel and Ludwig. 

Oaxaca coast 

san agustinillo

We flew from Mexico City to Puerto Escondido on the Pacific. We rented a car and headed south in the direction of Mazunte and San Agustinillo. Two small, low key and relaxed villages on the beach. 

It was surprising to see the nicely paved road that runs through both villages. On this road you can find coffee shops, restaurants and posadas. For a great breakfast you can come to La Mora.

Posada La Termita

 

We stayed with Termita, which is like many other posadas here, right on the beach.

 

www.posadalatermita.com

The owner, Mario, comes from northern Mexico. Twenty years ago, he decided to make a change to his life and career and starting out simply renting out hammocks at this magnificent location. Meanwhile, it turned into a fully functioning sustainable hotel with cabanas.

 

Mario’s personality adds color to your stay. You can take yoga classes, and a communal dinner is held at long tables. The food (including breakfast) is delicious. We were also surprised at how reasonably priced it is. It is therefore not surprising that it is a popular place to make sure you book on time. 

 

casa wabi

Casa Wabi is located North of Puerto Escondido. It is an artist in residence place that opened in 2014. The building was designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando. 

The use of concrete buildings, with a palm leaf roof is an impressive part of the landscape directly on the shores of the Pacific. 

 

www.casawabi.org

Hotel Escondido

Hotel Escondido is located five minutes away from Casa Wabi. It is a chic boutique hotel where you can also only go for lunch or dinner. It is a nice place to stay if you want to visit Casa Wabi.

 

www.hotelescondido.com

 

 

MEXICO

mexico city  - tepotzlan -  puerto escondido  -  casa wabi

mexico city  - tepotzlan -  puerto escondido  -  casa wabi

MEXICO

Hotel Rancho Cerro Largo

On a cliff at the end of San Agustinillo you can find Rancho Cerro Largo. It is a small resort which covers the entire cliff.

 

You arrive at the top where the reception and restaurant are located, with a breathtaking view of the ba. Once you check in you are escorted to one of the seven houses scattered over the mountain. 

 

The cottages are fully open, with all sides overlookingthe ocean, but they are constructed in a way that you have total privacy. They are also located on a path that will lead you right to the beach.

www.ranchocerrolargo.wix.com

 

 

Casa Wabi can be visited on Tuesdays and Thursday from 5pm and Saturday mornings from 9am.

 

To do this you need to make a reservation by mail: visit@casawabi.org 

or call: +52 (954) 582 2840

The Casa Wabi Art Foundation is an initiative of the Mexican artist Bosco Sodi and curator Patricia Martin. At their invitation, artists from all over the world can work there for a period of time. 

 

Above you can see one of the eight houses where the artists stay. 

© 2016 by Mirjam Bleeker and Frank Visser / all rights reserved